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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
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Andrew Anthony

‘Yes chef’: why the restaurant kitchen is a new hot spot for onscreen drama

Jeremy Allen White, with tousled hair, tattoos on his arm, sits on a kitchen sink wearing a T-shirt and an apron and looking exhausted, in the TV series The Bear
Jeremy Allen White stars as an haute-cuisine chef, Carmy, in the Chicago-set TV series The Bear. Photograph: Matt Dinerstein/AP

Since the 1960s, the drama of cooking has provided a basis for TV light entertainment, from Fanny Cradock through to Bake Off via The Galloping Gourmet, MasterChef and countless other oven-ready shows. But what it hasn’t done, at least until recently, is produce an actual drama series.

So you wait a lifetime for a restaurant-kitchen-based television drama series, and then, like the proverbial London bus, two arrive almost simultaneously. Technically speaking, the first was Disney+’s Chicago-based The Bear, starring Jeremy Allen White as Carman “Carmy” Berzatto, an award-winning haute-cuisine chef who takes over his dead brother’s neighbourhood sandwich bar.

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