However you look at it, the last 12 months has been ridiculously successful for Hunter Valley juggernaut Brokenwood.
But all of that would pale if last Saturday's much-anticipated release of their flagship Graveyard shiraz - with its $500 price tag - failed to live up to expectations.
No need to worry ... the annual Graveyard launch, in front of a packed room of 350 guests, ticked off the final box in a dazzling 12 months, with the 2024 vintage another outstanding wine.
But let's set the scene. Brokenwood's stellar 12 months included:
So, the '24 Graveyard?
Drumroll please ... Toni Paterson MW, one of the highly credentialed panel of Halliday judges, rated it at 99 points. That's two 99-point Graveyards in a row. She wrote: "The palate is refined and exquisite, yet bright and lithe with remarkable presence and momentum."
Little wonder winemaker Stuart Hordern described it as "an unbelievable year".
"I think the highlights were the Winery of the Year award - that's national, against everybody in the country - and also the RAS award. That award is not just the team in the winery but our whole group, marketing, cellar door, viticulturists, the lot," Hordern said.
And the two vintages?
"Very different - '23 was a long, slow ripening season, where the Graveyard vineyard's quality shows through. The '24 season was more challenging, and in the end everything came together really quickly. Very happy with the wine though. Not as big as '23."
For me, while there's no denying the quality of 2024 Graveyard, I have it behind the '23, which is one of the finest Hunter wines I've tasted. Say, 99 points to 96, nudging 97. But again, that's a personal thing.
All in all, the only NSW red to hold the highest level of Langton's Classification (1st Classified) continues to shine. And if you're after a white, the 2017 Oakey Creek Semillon ($80) is in a real sweet spot, but with years ahead of it.
Cook's Lot Allotment 333 Riesling 2025
$25
There's some serious bang for your buck with this riesling from Orange. Very pale in the glass, it has a nose of citrus, jasmine and mandarin peel. Lemon and lime flavours, fresh and zesty, a hint of mandarin again, spicy, and then juicy acidity. This could cellar for eight to 10 years and take on great complexity, but it's so appealing as a youngster.
Jardin d'Aromes Rose 2024
$23
From the Languedoc region in sunny southern France, this is a budget-friendly blend of grenache, cinsault, syrah and mourvedre in a seriously sexy bottle - one you might want to keep long after the wine has gone. Dry, with a floral Pot Pourri nose, berry flavours of raspberry and strawberry, with musk and rose petals. Herbs and spice too. A good value, easy drinker.
$80
From Eden Valley, this is a brooding sort of wine, built for the long haul. Deep purple with red trim, it has lashings of dark fruit - blackberry, dark plum, cocoa, bitter chocolate, licorice too. Dense and concentrated, but so downright drinkable. Tannins are ripe and fine grained, the finish long and balanced. This is quality all right, and you can cellar with confidence.