This September will mark the arrival of Women’s Fashion Week S/S 2024, a new season of collections presented in New York, London, Milan and Paris and comprising shows from established houses and emerging names alike. Notable moments include Sabato De Sarno’s much-anticipated first collection for Gucci (following Alessandro Michele’s exit in 2022), Peter Do’s debut at Helmut Lang, and a celebration of 30 years of Newgen in London, including a comprehensive exhibition on the city’s rebellious style at the Design Museum.
Here, in an ongoing report, discover everything Wallpaper* knows about Women’s Fashion Week S/S 2024 so far.
Women’s Fashion Week S/S 2024: what to expect
New York Fashion Week S/S 2024 (8 – 13 Sept 2023)
A buzzy New York Fashion Week in February – which included appearances from international houses Fendi and Marni, alongside a slew of NYC natives – marked something of a return for the week, which had run with a largely depleted schedule in seasons prior. The September edition looks to continue this buoyant mood: American behemoth Ralph Lauren has announced that he will return to the New York Fashion Week runway after a 4-year hiatus (he last showed on-schedule prior to the pandemic in 2019). Elsewhere, Vietnam-born, New York-based designer Peter Do – formerly of Phoebe Philo’s Celine – will make his debut as creative director of Helmut Lang. ’No one embodied radical thinking more definitely than Helmut Lang,’ Do said in a statement. ’It is my deep honour to be entrusted with ushering in the next chapter of [his] legacy.’ The rest of the schedule is yet to be announced, though it is likely that New York stalwarts Coach, Michael Kors and Tory Burch will continue to show, alongside a new generation looking to define the city’s style, among them Luar, Willy Chavarria and Puppets and Puppets.
London Fashion Week S/S 2024 (15 – 19 September 2023)
London Fashion Week will mark 30 years of Newgen – the British Fashion Council’s incubator scheme which has supported the early careers of many of the designers now on the schedule – with a series of events, including an exhibition at the Design Museum. Opening during the week, ‘Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion’ (September 16 2023 – 11 February 2024) will celebrate the rebellious design codes of Newgen alumni, from Jonathan Anderson to Wales Bonner. ‘It is impossible to underestimate the influence London has on Britain’s fashion talent a city that produces wave-after-wave of young designers that value originality, wearing what you believe in, and tackling social issues to make a better world,’ says guest curator Sarah Mower MBE, the BFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent. There is no official schedule as yet, though notable moments will include Daniel Lee’s sophomore Burberry show, a new round of Fashion East, and shows from designers including Simone Rocha, Roksanda, Molly Goddard and more.
Milan Fashion Week S/S 2024 (19 – 25 Sept 2023)
In perhaps the most high-profile debut of fashion month, Valentino alum Sabato De Sarno will present his first collection for Gucci this September (he was made creative director of the house in January 2023, following the exit of Alessandro Michele the previous November). Another debut in Milan is Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford, where the longtime designer for the house will take over as creative director after the eponymous founder exited the brand earlier this year. ‘In Peter Hawkings the brand has found the perfect creative director,’ said Ford. ‘He is an incredibly talented leader with tremendous industry experience, and his appointment gives me confidence that my commitment to creating fashion products with the highest level of design and quality will continue.’ Elsewhere – alongside the usual Milanese houses, among them Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Giorgio Armani, and more – the week will end with the Camera della Moda Sustainable Fashion Awards at La Scala Theatre on September 24, 2023.
Paris Fashion Week S/S 2024 (25 September – October 3, 2023)
As ever, Paris Fashion Week will close the week with an eight-day long schedule featuring appearances from Louis Vuitton, Dior, Chanel, Miu Miu, Saint Laurent, Loewe, Hermès, Valentino and Balenciaga. Eyes will look towards Chloé after the exit of Gabriela Hearst this month, while Chloé and Celine alum Phoebe Philo will also – at some point in September – reveal her first eponymous collection. Whether this will be during Paris Fashion Week, remains to be seen.
Stay tuned for more Wallpaper* coverage from Women’s Fashion Week S/S 2023.
