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The Canberra Times
The Canberra Times
Lucy Arundell

Wine on the line as climate change threatens grape growers

Climate change is a growing threat to the Canberran wine industry, according to a new report.

Viticulturist Thomas Lefebvre said they are already seeing the effects of climate change.

"We've been expecting a big drought and heatwave this year, and it's rained more than in the last couple of years," he said.

"The danger is more extremes in the climate, more droughts, more floods, more fires, and that makes growing grapes difficult.

"Canberra at the best of times is a marginal area to grow grapes."

Unpredictable weather wrecks havoc

A new report from Nature Reviews Earth & Environment has found that 65 per cent of Australian wine regions may become non-viable if global temperatures increase beyond 2°C.

Researchers predict that inland regions of NSW are particularly at risk of losing their viticulture industries to a changing climate.

Increased variability in the climate is a growing concern for winemaker Ken Helm.

He's been running Helm's Wine in the Canberra district for over 50 years.

Mr Helm said some local growers have chosen to move to Tasmania to ensure they can keep making cool climate wines.

"Before we could pretty well predict what day we would pick our grapes, but it's now becoming a bit more erratic, and the last five years in particular," Mr Helm said.

Vineyard manager Thomas Lefebvre with the 2024 crop. Picture by Elesa Kurtz

"For example, yesterday morning we had a frost in march. That is so unusual, we don't usually have frost until Anzac Day.

"This year has been one of the warmest on record, and one of the earliest vintages on record."

Hotter and drier conditions for Aussie wineries

More frequent extreme climate conditions such as increased heatwaves and excessive droughts are predicted to have a major effect on wine production.

Australia is projected to experience overall warmer and drier conditions, making regions that are already hot and arid especially vulnerable. An increase in hailstorms is also expected.

Many Australian wineries will become more reliant on irrigation to maintain yields and vine growth.

Changing weather patterns could see new wine-growing regions emerge in places that were previously too cold, such as southern Tasmania and New Zealand.

Wine grapes are the world's third most valuable horticultural crop, accounting for $983 million of Australian agricultural production.

Regions such as Canberra, Orange and the Barossa Valley with a specific wine climate may find their grape varieties have to change to keep up with the temperature.

Mr Helm said Canberra will keep its status as premier wine region, whether by moving to higher altitudes or by growing different grapes.

"We can look at other varieties to grow and keep producing the high quality wines Canberra is known for," he said.

"Our property is at around 650m above sea level, but we can drive for 40 minutes towards Bungendore where the land is at 880m.

"We can actually gain a cooler climate by moving up, we don't have to move to Tasmania!"

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