
We've lived for over a century in the shadow of grandeur: near the Customs House, known to Thais as rongpasi. "We" means my maternal family and the community of Haroon Mosque. Each day before sunrise, the muezzin's sing-song call rings through the neighbourhood, carried on the river wind towards the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, the French Embassy and Assumption Cathedral.
At sunset, another call for prayer echoes from this mosque, established by an Indonesian merchant on the bank of the Chao Phraya in the 1850s. Around 1888, during the reign of King Rama V, the mosque was relocated a few hundred metres inland to make way for the Customs House, one of the riverside's most majestic structures.