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The Independent UK
The Independent UK
Kate Eshelby

Why you should swap Everest base camp’s crowds for its rival’s spiritual beauty

Walking back from K2 base camp along the Godwin-Austen Glacier, facing Chogolisa Peak - (Kate Eshelby)

After a bone-shaking ride through the saw-toothed peaks of northern Pakistan, we find that floodwaters have wiped away the road ahead. Fortunately, Rashid, our driver, spots another Jeep across the roaring river, which swirls and leaps like a tempestuous sea.

Quickly we transfer our dusty bags and hurry over a rickety footbridge before the ferocious glacial waters devour it too. And this is just the beginning. My husband, Mark, and I are on our way to Askole, the gateway to K2 base camp – and the start of one of the world’s most remote and challenging treks.

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