Waves are formed when ocean swells, stirred by far off storms, make contact with the seafloor. Typically, this is a gradual process, but at Teahupo’o, Tahiti, site of the 2024 Paris Olympics surfing event, every parameter is taken to its extreme.
The monster waves’ swells originate from powerful Antarctic storms before traversing thousands of kilometres of open ocean and crashing into a coral reef less than a metre (less than yard) deep. The result is a perfect tube of eye-watering intensity that can be navigated only by the very best surfers in the world. As surf coach and author Jason Borte writes: “Guts alone may cut it at some big-wave venues, but here they’ll get you killed. An iron sack must be accompanied by finesse in negotiating a wave that has relegated Pipeline [Hawaii’s heaviest wave] to mere warm-up status.”
