Sarojini Naidu famously quipped that it cost a lot of money to keep Mahatma Gandhi in poverty, so she would no doubt view with amusement fashion’s current obsession with quiet luxury dressing. Blame it on actor Gwyneth Paltrow’s recent attire in court during a ski trial in Utah, where her restrained style of cashmere sweaters, coats and boots in neutral tones from brands such as The Row, Ralph Lauren, Celine and Prada, went viral. Inflationary pressures in the West and an uncertain global economic climate made fashion observers opine that Paltrow’s understated (read: costly) dressing was a harbinger for things to come. But is this a real, lasting trend or a flash in the pan?
“The international fashion system needs a new buzzword every season,” says Mayank Mansingh Kaul, the noted textile designer and curator. “Take this with a pinch of salt. One year it’s about a colour and the next it’s about sustainability and artisanship, and then it’s about quiet luxury. Brands are showing multiple times a year so you need something to drive sales every season.” In fact, walk the streets of New York or enter the opulent glamour that is Sabyasachi’s new store in Mumbai and there is no room for “quiet” in luxury. Today’s shopper craves recognition because of the aspirational aspect of her purchases. Flaunting expensive, branded items signals success and wealth. In India, thanks to Instagram’s popularity and the growth of influencer/paparazzi culture, over the top weddings and glitzy celebrity style drive our aesthetic.
