
I knew it would be an adventure when I saw the machete. “I think we might need it today,” mused Julian Toussaint, my hiking guide, peering at the thick tangle of trees and ivy ahead.
Bears? Wolves? “Absolutely not!” he laughed, the long blade gleaming beside his leggings and runner’s singlet. “But we might need to hack our way through: the path gets so overgrown, even after just a day or two...”