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Times Life
Times Life
Aishwarya Kapoor

Why Kolkata Is India's Most Underrated Food City and the Restaurants You Must Eat At

The Biryani Argument Kolkata Wins Every Time

Kolkata biryani contains a potato. That single fact has launched more food arguments than anything else in the Indian culinary conversation, and the city wins every one of them on merit. When Nawab Wajid Ali Shah arrived from Lucknow in 1856 after the British annexed Awadh, his royal cooks adapted the dum biryani to local budgets by adding the aloo, a substitution that became the city's signature. The result is lighter than Hyderabadi, more fragrant than Delhi's, and built on a saffron-and-kewra base that most other cities simply don't bother with. Arsalan on Park Circus has been the benchmark for decades. Order the mutton biryani, eat it in the restaurant rather than packing it out, and notice how the rice stays separate, each grain coated, not clumped.

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