Germany at a crossroads: what a nuclear power station tells us about its energy dilemma

Clouds of steam rise from the nuclear plant in Neckarwestheim, south-west Germany. Photograph: Frank Bauer/The Guardian

On a slope above the river Neckar in south-west Germany, about 25 miles (40km) from Stuttgart, stands the village of Neckarwestheim, its red terracotta roofs surrounded by vineyards and farmers’ fields, with streets leading to a central market square.

So far, so typical for a rural community in the German state of Baden-Württemberg. However, this settlement of 4,200 residents has one defining characteristic: it is located right next to one of Germany’s three remaining nuclear power stations.

The challenges facing this picturesque village illustrate how the energy crisis is affecting Europe’s largest economy, as Russia’s weaponisation of the gas supply has complicated Germany’s planned transition away from nuclear.