Summer 2008
The chicken lies so submissively in its green plastic bag under the seat of the Sumo that I forget it’s there. It’s counting its last moments. The beautiful, dangerous Lolab Valley (District Kupwara), is about 24 kms long. When we reach one of the last villages nestled in its magnificent mountains, it will be cooked and I will eat it. It is a token of my host’s respect and desire to please me that he has bought it. Laden with other goodies like the fresh produce of Kupwara and its invaluable, prime commodity - walnuts - we have set off in time to beat the witching hour.
