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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Ben McCormack

Whisking his reputation: The diary of a restaurant critic on a culinary crash course

It was the cleaner that did it. She asked — innocently but embarrassingly — why my partner James and I never had any food in the fridge. “Well,” I stuttered, “I suppose… I mean…”

Excuses were made, but in truth, who needs groceries when you never cook? It’s not as dramatic as it sounds — we’re not into extreme fasting or anything. But in 26 years of writing about restaurants, I have always consoled myself with the thought that whatever career obstacles I might encounter, I would never go hungry.

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