I’ll have what she’s having: Hannah Crosbie
(Picture: Press handout)Christmas food is famously pesky to pair with — all those flavours knocking about make it difficult to know what to go for. Here, Hannah Crosbie of the Dalston Wine club shares her favourite bottles for the big day.
Festive fizz
Nothing signifies celebration like fizz; the pop of the cork is an amazingly festive moment. I’m a huge advocate for pairing sparkling with food, so don’t confine the stuff to a simple toast — serve with salmon blinis and deep-fried finger foods. Aldi’s Castellore Organic Prosecco is a floral and bright bargain at £7.99 (aldi.co.uk), Berry Bros. & Rudd’s Crémant de Limoux Brut is an elegant alternative at £13.95 (bbr.com), while the vivid and food-friendly Billecart Salmon Brut Sous Bois, pictured below, is my top pick at £62.50 (wanderlustwine.co.uk).
Classic whites
I love draining a bottle of white Burgundy during the festive period. What unites the finest examples is a crescendoing complexity that reverberates throughout the meal. The best white Burgundy evolves – and pairs fantastically with crispy roast chicken, cream sauces, wild mushrooms and light cheeses. Basically, white Burgundy with everything. Cave de Lugny Mâcon-Villages is a dry, buttery number at £10.99 (waitrose.com), spend a little more and the creamy Jeroboams White Burgundy 2019 is better (and on offer) at £15.95 (jeroboams.co.uk) but those splashing out should go for the rich and intense Terroirs de Béru Chablis 2018 at £39 (emilewines.com). If you’re more into Viognier, which suits turkey perfectly, my favourite is Alban Vineyards Viognier 2020 (£38, pacificwines.co.uk) but Yalumba Organic Viognier (£7.99, waitrose.com) is rich and silky too. The Domaine Begude 'Le Paradis' Organic Viognier 2020/21, at £16.99, makes a nice bottle somewhere between the two (majestic.co.uk).
Joyful reds
Cabernet Sauvignon is a classic for a reason; I can scarcely think of anything better to sip alongside a rack of lamb, a joint of beef or aged cheeses. Exquisite examples can be found around the world, meaning there’ll be something left on the shelf even after the Christmas hordes have descended on your local supermarket. Aldi’s Château Les Trois Manoirs is ripe, bright and just £7.99 (aldi.co.uk), while Penfold’s plush Max’s Cabernet Sauvignon (£18, sainburys.co.uk) is a vibrant example too; more upscale and Château Rauzan-Ségla 2018 (£35, bbr.com) is an enticing, dense and silky. That said, Pinot Noir is my favourite grape. At first, this delicate, ethereal wine may not be an obvious choice for a hearty roast, but it pairs exceptionally well with the unconventional meats. Think plump roast duck, spiced pork leg or roasted Portobello mushrooms. Akitu A2 Pinot Noir (£35, harveynichols.com) is my top pick here; it’s versatile but intense, while I’m a fan of the fruity and perfumed Guy Allion Les Mazelles (£16, emilewines.com) too. Still, for 11 quid, you could do a lot worse than Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Pinot Noir (sainsburys.co.uk).
