Once my work is done, and as long as the winds aren’t whipping up the valley, I head into Aberystwyth to dip into the sea. Some days I try to swim far; others I lie on my back and watch the clouds. Then I wander up to the Prom Diner and, depending on the time, order a cortado, an ice-cream or, if the day lends itself to it, a beer. I find a seat facing the sea and bask in all of it. This is a very good life.
But I cannot stay smug, because the sea has other ideas. Aberystwyth’s beaches, like those of Borth and Aberdyfi to the north, are storm beaches, which move with the sea’s weather and moods. At this time of year, they shift daily – sometimes even more often. The largely slate shingle beach that holiday folk know from summer is gone and replaced with sand.
