“This is a completely crazy place — look at those graves!” A young, well-heeled couple stood at a window of the renovated church where my partner and I had found ourselves on a Sunday afternoon. The man apparently didn’t like what he was seeing.
Outside, a ramshackle cemetery ringed the church, its worn gravestones toppled this way and that like fallen dominos. Those whose inscriptions were not smudged out by time revealed little of the people buried beneath.
