
On a plate in front of me are three shrimp: One is wild, one is farmed, and the last one isn’t a shrimp at all.
It’s a vegan “shrimp,” one of several brands that have come to market in the last decade. It looks like a shrimp. When I pick it up and flex its tail backward, it snaps back into the signature “C” shape real shrimp take on to swim backward through the water column. When I squeeze it between my fingers, it gives just enough. If I had a blindfold on, I’m not sure my fingers could feel the difference.