“Does everyone,” the film critic Anne Billson asked on Twitter, “have an evil jar in their fridge?” To which surely the correct answer is: “Only one? Lightweight.” We have a whole fridge shelf dedicated to cursed jars, most much older than Billson’s best-before February 2021 rollmops. There’s a chutney from Christmas 2018, something dark and viscous in a honey jar that definitely isn’t honey and several pots of vegan pesto – a substance that inexplicably goes off quicker than mince left out in the sun – covered in some terrifying bloom. If the zombie series The Last of Us has taught us anything, it’s to fear anything fungal, so I’m not investigating further.