The cafe owner
Bec Bowie - Estabar, Newcastle East
What impact did the pandemic have?
COVID-19 made it necessary to have another look at how we did everything. We changed our menu because we really needed to streamline our offering to keep costs in order, but also to enable us to be more efficient with our space and our staff numbers on shift. We changed our operating hours, shortening our day to 2pm, from 4pm. We changed from an "order at the counter" system to table service. This has been the biggest and best change. We really had to control customer flow and space people out. In the end this made it easier for us to offer better service and improved our customer experience.
How did you change your model to manage restrictions?
We switched to takeaway only. We restricted the menu. This was one of the trickier things: to identify what people really wanted and which parts of our menu really worked in takeaway. Again, building the capacity of this part of our business has been great and our little takeaway nook is very popular now. We offered a limited range of take-home goods, like labna, pesto and granola. We connected people with vegetable boxes from Stanley at Local Crop and they were really popular. Mostly, people just wanted us to be there for their coffee ritual and a snack. For some, being able to grab their favourite items and local groceries was really important.
Is there anything you'll keep doing?
Yep: the takeaway, the table service, the operating hours and the streamlined menu.
What's the way forward for eating out?
I'm sad to see it moving even further away from actual hospitality and human engagement with orders via apps and QR codes on the rise. I feel cafes have a very important social function. Being able to walk into a space, be recognised, welcomed and cared for is super important and really rewarding for everyone involved.
What are patrons looking for now?
I feel like people are wired. COVID-19 has been so tough on all of us in so many different ways. I feel they need a break, they need to be able to settle into their chair and just be taken care of.
The restaurateur
Kay Roberts - Subo, Newcastle West
What impact did COVID-19 have?
There was a lack of certainty around timeframes and closures, and them constantly changing with isolation rules and restrictions. We missed getting any government support by two days, so we largely had to manage under our own steam.
Newcastle was isolated for a long period. The first year we had more of a cut-off time, but the second time it was ongoing. You could never see the end date. That was challenging in itself.
What did you do to adapt?
We offered Subo at Home [a DIY experience where the meal was prepared by Subo and the rest finished at home], and it was well-received. It kept customers connected to us by offering a fantastic food package that they could enjoy in the relative safety of their home.
It was hard to pivot to boxes. We tried to streamline, yet keep our high quality. We did a really great job because of our talented of chefs who ran with it. One night we were serving dinner, and the next week we're putting food in cryo bags. The front of house staff were packing food, creating menu instructions, labelling and so on.
Is there anything you'll keep onboard?
We decided it was too much to keep the boxes going once the dining room was back open. The one positive thing that came out of it was those who never had never dined here before tried the boxes and then came into the restaurant afterwards.
What does dining at Subo look like now?
We needed to rejuvenate and come back stronger. We changed our menu structure; we now offer a six-course tasting menu. First course is seasonal treats which depend on produce and chef brainstorming - it's an opportunity for them to try something a little different.
How have patrons changed?
Pre-pandemic, bookings were more popular at later sittings - from 8pm. We've found post-pandemic that everyone wants to eat early. We have waiting lists for the earlier sittings and vacancies for the second sitting midweek. It's a complete flip.
Diners are also more aware of the effort that goes into the experience of eating out. It's not taken for granted - people appreciate that we're still here.
The Publican
Luke Tilse - The Happy Wombat, Newcastle West and The Young Street Hotel, Carrington
What impact did lockdown have?
Lockdown involved three parts, in my eyes. The first phase, we were learning what was going on. We had to cancel our annual craft beer festival. We then had the best 12 months of trade ever between the initial lockdown and the second one. There was pent-up demand. People realised "We can have this taken away from us?". They were appreciating hospitality for what it was - social hubs. Everyone went out with gusto.
The second phase was when it spread from the girls who came out of Sydney. The third phase was when Sydney got locked down with Delta. It was like purgatory for us as we were open, but no one was around or going out because they were worried. It was the worst period of the entire pandemic, from mid-December to mid-February. There was no support, no excitement or activity. I lost $140,000 in seven weeks.
How did you change your model during this time?
We shut the Happy Wombat down for a week, then started doing takeaway sales. We sold off all our beer using growlers, and started a ghost business as the Wombat couldn't do takeaway. We came up with Chipz and Snitz which was delivery-based.
We did a full renovation of the Wombat while in lockdown, as it's normally price prohibitive when you do one. It might cost you $15,000, but you lose $40,000 in trade.
Another positive was that the Young Street Hotel was born out of the fire of the pandemic. I wouldn't have that business without someone else walking out because of COVID-19.
Is there anything you'll keep?
I'm not really keeping anything. I'm glad to have it behind me. It's made me realise all of this can be over in an instant, so now I'm super-focused on debt reduction. I know I'm not the only person who lost stupid amounts of money and now we're all paying that off. We've redrawn home loans and it will take 18-24 months just to get that paid back again.
How is business post-pandemic?
Great. Trade has come back; it's been really good for the last two months. Now it's our favourite part of year until November. I'm optimistic.
The Supplier
Tony Wearne - Shane's Seafood, Carey Bay
What impact did COVID-19 have?
Overnight we lost 100 restaurants in one hit. Different restaurants dealt differently. Once they realised it wasn't going away anytime soon, they diversified, they did takeaway and home deliveries. The Hunter Valley is so reliant on tourism, so they copped it hard. We kept supplying two restaurants out of 60 or so, the rest just closed.
How did you change your model?
It was more of a scaling back than a change. We've got a retail store attached to the wholesale business, which kept employees in a job. We basically tread water the whole time. Retail picked up and our store got busier as more people cooked at home. We had to cut our deliveries down to three days instead of five. We opened up an online ordering system, with pick-up locations in the Hunter and Newcastle.
What's it like in the seafood industry?
Retail has picked up, and home deliveries offset wholesale losses. Buying patterns changed, but fishermen still had to go fishing. Fish held their prices as chefs began running online courses and cookery classes.
Is there anything you'll keep?
We're reopening the online store. We got such good feedback. People come out to visit us, plus we are doing drop-off points across the Valley and Newcastle.
For me, pre-pandemic I was up at 2am every morning to get down to the markets. Thirty percent of buyers were told to maintain physical distancing, myself included, so we had to buy online. I've kept that model, and benefitted. I get a coffee and sit on my lounge and order produce. My driver loads up everything I buy, and brings it up each day. I feel fresher and better than I have in years.
What's the way forward for hospitality?
It's really changed in my dealings with chefs. They are still struggling staff-wise and with costs; it seems everyday we have to hit them with price rises. They're so understanding, they've learned to roll with the punches. I've seen such camaraderie in the industry.
With our online retail, people are being a bit more adventurous - it's not just salmon and barramundi anymore. I've also noticed a shift towards local and sustainable produce.
The chef
Shayne Mansfield - The Flotilla, Wickham
What impact did COVID-19 have?
When I first started [in July 2020], we reduced seating capacity from 90 to 60 - 30 covers per sitting. Masks, distancing, QR codes, all that doom and gloom. Diners had to rock up with a mask, take it off once they sat down, then put it back on to go to the bathroom. All workers in the restaurant had to wear them 24/7. We had to cook over a fire of 355 degrees with a mask on, taste test things with it on. With an open kitchen, which is quite intimate, it was daunting trying to build rapport with covered faces.
In July 2021, we burned the masks at the end of service one Sunday. By the time we'd had a week off, lockdown was back and we closed for three weeks. I can't just sit at home, and knew we needed to figure out something. We decided to do our Sunday menu as takeaway. We had overwhelming support, selling out weeks in advance. To go from a busy restaurant, working 75 hours a week, to nothing, it's a lot to take on board.
Is there anything you'll keep?
We ended up keeping down the numbers of diners; we were doing 90 covers, but realised we do 70 really well. You're there for an experience, and we saw less is best.
Personally, I needed something to do during lockdown so I started a hobby of making plates; now I make all the plates for Flotilla. I love it.
How are your relationships with suppliers?
We've got really good suppliers. They copped it as well. Prices are just astronomical, but you can only pass so much onto the consumer. We've always adapted what the suppliers provide and say is good, and we can amend menus daily if we need to.
Have diners' expectations changed?
It's still in the back of everyone's mind but I think people are more happy to be out and about again. I find the majority are grateful to be with us and enjoying each others' company. Some seem a bit more demanding, but most are supportive and happy we made it through.
What's the way forward for eating out?
It's not business as usual. Prices will keep going up. It's going to be a balancing act between quality and ethically-sourced ingredients versus cost.
