It's been almost 20 years since Porto Lounge first opened in Fishponds, yet anyone who regularly passes will know that it still pulls in a loyal crowd all this time later - people regularly queue outside for weekend brunch, patiently waiting on the pavement opposite Fishponds Park.
This month marked the start of a new chapter for the bar-restaurant as it vacated its small green-tiled corner unit and moved to a huge premises just up the High Street, which had been empty for some time after the departure of the Card Factory and Lloyds Pharmacy. Bristol Live went to check it out inside its vast new home, and found that it was already full of customers all just as keen to try it out.
It was the first Friday night since opening, and it had been the talk of the neighbourhood since the signage and dusky pink painted exterior had been unveiled a few days earlier when the hoardings came down. Still, with the cost of living crisis and competition like the ever-popular Crafty Egg and family-friendly cafe-bar Grounded opposite, it's no mean feat to pack out a venue this size.
Read more: Review - Bristol's new health cafe serves smoothie bowls and pricey porridge
According to a Bristol Post article in 2004, work started that year on Porto Lounge, which became the third branch in the chain after Lounge café/bar in North Street and Tinto Lounge in Gloucester Road. Its new setting has the same granny chic look that makes the chain distinct - vintage-style floral wallpaper, rows upon rows of mis-matched artwork, dark furnishings and a cosy glow thanks to lots of lights hanging from the ceiling.
We arrived just after 6pm and found a small queue that had already formed out the door. Another woman soon joined behind us, frantically ringing her friend she'd presumably arranged to meet - "It's not on the corner anymore, it's moved!"
We can see through the window that it's spacious and they've not tried to cram in as many tables as the space will allow - it's far less cramped than the original site, where you often had to squeeze between tables or prams to get to the bar.
After about five minutes we have made it through the door and are first in line, having swiftly moved up when two other couples peeled off in search of a quicker pint. Inside we awkwardly hover, having spotted a free table we don't feel confident enough to claim in case that's not the etiquette here.
The staff look a little flustered but we are nonetheless greeted very warmly after a short wait, and invited to sit in plush arm chairs at the only remaining table for two. We're told we can either order at the bar, or scan the QR code to order to our table, which feels like a bit of post-lockdown nostalgia.
Lazily, we opt for the latter and order a grapefruit margarita (£8.25) and an IPA (£5.55) to drink. They soon arrive and, although the margarita purist in me is disappointed by the lack of salt rim and presence of ice, it's undeniably delicious.
Anyone who's been to a Lounge before will know the food choice to be pretty extensive - burgers, pasta, chicken, steak, salads and more, so it takes a bit of scrolling before we decide on some tapas to share. You can get a choice of three for £11.25, and they throw in a glass of house wine for free on 'Tapas Tuesdays'.
Unfortunately for us we're three days late (or four days early) for that, but it still seems like good value with single plates priced at £4.25. We end up with a bit of a feast: salt and pepper squid, honey whipped feta with pitta, arancini, chicken wings and pulled chicken with chorizo.
We then ruin the Spanish theme with onion rings and fries as well, and feel bad about all the beige so order some broccoli out of embarrassment more than anything. When it arrives only about 20 minutes later, we end up glad we did - the token bit of green was actually one of the tastiest dishes, perfectly charred and with a hint of chilli.
The squid was thankfully not chewy as it so often is, with a lovely crisp batter, but if we're being picky we would have preferred an aioli dip to the bland mayonnaise it was served with. The arancini was also slightly lacking in flavour but the coating of rich tomato sauce more than made up for it - I could have eaten a bowl of that with some bread and been content with nothing else.
It was a happy half hour or so as we ate our way around the array of food. The feta was another favourite, offering creamy cheese seasoned with honey and paprika, as was the sticky barbecue chicken with spring onions for a bit of bite. The chicken with chorizo was also a winner, delivering tender mouthfuls of meat with an undertone of spice.
We could have enjoyed another drink after our plates were cleared but, conscious there were still a few people waiting for tables, we headed off - no need to wait for the bill thanks to the online ordering - sooner than we might have liked.
No doubt things have calmed down since we visited in the first week, so we'll definitely be back when it's a bit quieter and we can enjoy the cosy setting at more of a leisurely pace.
Read next:
- Bristol pub owner accuses energy company of ‘blatant profiteering' after £7K bill
- Bristol backs pub that's 'like a creche at times' for new 'sit still' rule for children
- Tenants of historic Bristol pub say 'ever-rising costs' have reaffirmed their decision to move on
- Bristol bakery donating all of Saturday's profits to Turkey's earthquake appeal
- Bakery issues plea to support local in 'terrifying times' for small businesses
