It’s 6am and I’m trying to decide whether it’s the heady scent of jasmine or the jet lag that’s got me so lightheaded. Probably both. I’ve woken up at ridiculous o'clock and managed to locate the button to automatically open my curtains from the giant bed at the Jumeirah Al Arab – whilst taking in the scenery of pure white sand, sunbeds as far as the eye can see and discreet workers who are beavering away at the day’s maintenance. The mighty seven-star Jumeirah Burj Al Arab looms in my vision on its man-made island opposite my balcony.
Dubai loves a superlative: tallest tower, fastest lift, deepest pool, highest dancing fountain – and I begin my quest to discover its burgeoning art scene with the biggest breakfast. The Al Arab dining experience is something to behold, and for a city known for its belt-busting brunch experiences, that’s saying something. Saffron croissants, check. Sushi, check. Shakshuka, check.
