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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Jon Henley Europe correspondent

‘We have to rethink the industry’: fine dining’s future in doubt as Noma calls it a day

A whole roasted wild duck dish at Noma
A whole roasted wild duck dish at Noma. The restaurant is to be replaced by a ‘pioneering test kitchen and lab dedicated to groundbreaking work in food’. Photograph: Ty Stange/The Observer

If what tickles your tastebuds for supper is duck brain served in the skull, edible pine cones, sweetbreads in reindeer moss and dried plum and pheasant heart followed by a berry-leather and black-garlic beetle, you’d better get a move on.

Noma, the fine-dining restaurant in Copenhagen on whose winter “game and forest” menu (it also does vegetable and seafood seasons) those delicacies feature, is closing at the end of next year, and the waiting list for tables is very long.

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