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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Phoebe Taplin

‘Waves break right on to the bus windscreen’: a car-free trip along County Antrim’s dramatic coast

Figure crossing a rope bridge perched high above the sea between two grassy cliffs
Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, near Ballintoy, Northern Ireland. Photograph: Peter Unger/Getty Images

Oystercatchers fly off as I step through stalks of storm-racked kelp for an icy dip in the winter-grey sea. Actually, the water feels unexpectedly warm, perhaps in contrast to the freezing wind. But it’s cold enough to do its job: every nerve is singing and I feel euphoric. I’m exploring the Antrim coast, which has some of the UK’s finest beaches, and proves excellent for a sustainable break – even in the stormy depths of winter.

Ballygally Castle is a great place to start and offers a Sea Dips and Hot Sips package that includes dry robes, hot-water bottles and flasks. The affordable castle, celebrating its 400th birthday this year, is perhaps Northern Ireland’s only 17th-century hotel.

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