They were the place to be last night - filled with copious pints, fans, pumping music and the Qatar World Cup branding. Excitement filled the air as supporters from England and Wales flocked in to their fan zones for the match last night.
In the Tramshed in Cardiff, and Boxpark in Wembley, the respective flags and bunting were out, the shirts and bucket hats were on and there were many barrels of beer to be drained. And despite both sites being strictly for home fans only, there were some cheeky rivals supporters who snuck in, not wanting to miss out on all the fun.
To put things into context, roads across the UK were empty, as jubilant workers made their way straight from the office to the pub, and roads were deserted after the match got underway at 7pm.
For England fans it paid off, as they were rewarded with two goals from Marcus Rashford and one from Phil Foden. After a dull first half, Marcus Rashford's stunning free kick and Phil Foden 's close-range finish gave England a two-goal lead shortly after the break, before Rashford scored again.
In Wales, the mood was less chipper - but many fans, Sam Portillo and Sam Edwards write below, were over the moon to see their country in the World Cup.
Here's an account of what went on in two rival fan zones last night, as thousands of fans flocked to watch the match.
Wembley
One place I never expected to be on a Tuesday afternoon was watching the World Cup with thousands of fans in a venue like Wembley's Boxpark. However, as 3pm rolled around that's exactly where I was - with hours to fill until kick off.
There was a distinct lack of tension from the steady stream of people entering the venue, all ready to see England take on Wales. Bizarrely, the room felt calm despite the strong rivalry between the two teams.
Boxpark had limited the viewings to England fans only so this helped alleviate tension - but that didn't stop the occasional Wales flag sneaking through. The makeshift kaffiyeh fashioned from the not-so-subtle dragon flag vanished as quickly as they appeared as staff tried to prevent fights before they even started.
The build up felt like any other day with fans milling around, chatting and grabbing drinks and food. One fan, Harry, said: "We're here to not only support England but also spend time with our mates". The group, all in their mid 20s, had all taken the afternoon off work to watch the game together.
His friend James added: "I think the special thing about this is normally we're taking the p*** out of each other for our club teams, whereas every couple of years we get to support the same team and actually show a bit of affection to each other." They all said the atmosphere and comradery was part of the appeal of watching the game.
Even those who are utterly uninterested in the sport would find it hard not to be swept up in the excitement of it all as a keepie uppie competition ensued. A firm winner was found in former professional footballer turned TV personality Jimmy Bullard – who seemed to be having a whale of a time with fellow celebs Pete Wicks and Chris Hughes.
The jovial atmosphere continued with the crowd singing along happily to the classic Three Lions as well as other hits like Blur's Parklife. Of course wherever possible lyrics were changed to supportive chants of "England" or "it's coming home", no matter if it fitted the tune or not.
Fans were then treated a performances from East 17 who ramped up the energy by singing some Christmas classics before EastEnders legend Shaun Williamson took the stage.
The crowd belted out Sweet Caroline with the star, who now gets booked for his 'Barrioke' only to find out it was his birthday moments later, with many singing happy birthday to Shaun but calling him “Barry” in homage to his beloved character.
Kick off was looming and beer was flowing - only to be met with a rather disappointing first half.
The crowd felt somewhat subdued as both teams made plays for a goal but nothing was scored. I, along with others around me, was getting worried that the game would flatline at a nil-nil draw and the build up would amount to nothing.
Half time was sweet relief in this moment, allowing the woes of the first half to wash away with a top up pint and a trip to the toilet. Refreshed and ready for more, I returned to the standing area hopeful that things would pick up but not expecting much.
Feeling disheartened, a hesitant cheer came as the ball inched closer to Wales' goal, the room held it's breath for England's players. That erupted as Marcus Rashford scored in the 50th minute.
Drinks went flying, strangers hugged strangers, and the room wept as that all important first goal was scored by England.
Boxpark's website does read: "Please refrain from throwing things in the air, especially things made out of plastic, your shoes or your hopes and dreams. They hurt." But these warnings were swiftly forgotten in the wake of the much needed goal.
While the room, and Wales, were still reeling, Phil Foden scored straight from kick off to the room's dizzying delight - many of us missed this second goal because we were too busy celebrating the first.
More drinks were thrown into the air and this time I was suitably drenched in beer as spray came from the seated area in front and the standing area behind me - my white top was now speckled with darker patches. In this moment it was like we had already won, chants of "England" rose up in the crowd as Wales' defeat came within our grasp.
The rest of the game passed by in a haze after this elation, as Rashford scored once more everyone breathed a sigh of relief as now there was no way Wales could take this from us.
As full time was reached the crowd broke out in cheers and chanting, celebrating winning a game which felt personal. Many lingered in Boxpark to celebrate and join in on one final patriotic cover of Sweet Caroline, loudly and unashamedly - it really could be coming home.
Cardiff
It was misty in the Welsh capital. We couldn’t make out our taxi’s numberplate as we waited outside a bustling student pub and joined the wrong queue when we got out. Not a great start.
After these minor blips, we found our way to Tramshed, guided by the topless serenade of a die-hard Wales fan, hanging out his third-floor window, asking us to film while he belted Yma O Hyd.
The gravity of the crowd drew us inside, and with a rousing chorus of Viva Gareth Bale, the reality of the task ahead set in.
Wales needed to beat their oldest, most bitter rivals - England - on the biggest stage. Not only this, their fate also lied in the hands (or feet) of the Iran and USA, both of whom needed three points to progress. Wales had to pray for a draw.
Did you watch the match in a fan zone? Share your experiences in the comment section below.
We took our place on the upstairs balcony, ordered a much needed pint and a delicious pint, which for a hot, savoury moment, settled the nerves.
But back to the football. Five minutes to kick-off. Five minutes to get the drinks in and emotions out. The biggest game in Welsh football history - England and Wales at the World Cup. Halfway around the world, a place in the knockouts to play for.
The anthem met the occasion. Bucket hats and daffodils have never made such a racket. The speakers were so big they obscured our view of the big screen, but we could hear and feel what was happening on the pitch.
Rob Page’s men endured a nervy first-half, fans forced to celebrate every challenge, foul and throw. We were in good company on the balcony: to our left, none other than legendary Cymru keeper, Neville Southall. For 45 minutes, he gripped the rail in front of him like a ball between his gloves.
Big Nev won 92 caps for Wales and remains our country’s fourth-most capped player. He would have dreamed of playing on the hallowed World Cup turf, but as a vocal advocate of LGBTQ+ rights, maybe he was more comfortable in his corner of the first floor of Tramshed in the Welsh capital.
Wales survived the first half but hope was wearing thin. We retreated to the smoking area for fresh air, but it was busy, and loud, and a perfect scene of the characters that have come to epitomise support for Welsh football’s renaissance played out in front of us.
A recital of Michael Sheen’s iconic battle-cry started with one man and ended with five.
"Yma o hyd!” the sons of Speed sang.
Across the stage, a security guard restrained a fan. We asked him why. The writhing Welshman pointed to an England shirt.
"Look at him! Can’t have that on in ‘ere!”
The fifteen minute respite flew by like a Gareth Bale free-kick. Drinks in. Emotions out. We go again. Yma o hyd.
The second half was not so kind. Five minutes in, Marcus Rashford rifled a free-kick past a hopeless Danny Ward, sucking the sound out of the Tramshed air.
We took Rob Page’s lead on the touchline. Chins up, rallying our boys on the pitch, but before you could say Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch, England had scored another.
The more honest fans in the room knew that we had lost. On the pitch, at least. Because the nation had won something much greater.
The chants became less about the moment and more about the movement. Viva Gareth Bales became Don’t Take Me Homes, a staple of the summer of 2016 and the European Championships that catapulted Welsh football into the mainstream - still the pinnacle of the national team’s storied past.
Another Rashford goal sealed England’s progression to the round of 16. England won and Wales lost. Our World Cup adventure was over - one draw, two losses, and only one goal - a penalty - to celebrate.
Despite the disappointing World Cup showing, you’ll find few Welsh fans ready to criticise their team. The game finished with one last hymn of the national anthem. Teary Wales players clapped through the screen and fans in the Welsh capital clapped back.
The World Cup dream is over, but the reality is clearer now than ever before.
Wales is a nation both stubborn and small. The smallest nation to qualify for the Qatar World Cup. A nation that languished 117th in the FIFA World Ranking in 2011. Did Wales need - deserve, even - a football team?
Wales was not a football nation. 13 thousand fans might remember Wales host Iceland in 2014. “Not many turned up,” noted The Guardian. Tickets were on sale for £1 at the door and it took a Gareth Bale masterclass to prise anything from an otherwise drab affair.
In the next eight years, Wales qualified for two European Championships and their first World Cup in 64 years.
If Wales wasn’t a football nation then, it certainly is now. Gareth Bale’s greatest legacy is not leading his side to the World Cup, or even a semi-final in 2016. Nor the personal accolades of being Wales’ all-time top scorer or appearance maker.
13 million Brits watched Wales’ return to the World Cup - a draw against the United States that showed the nation’s ability to punch above its weight and compete on the world stage.
As Page’s men catch the Qatar-Cardiff plane, they can be proud of a legacy that stretches far beyond three games in Qatar. They will leave Welsh football in a better state than they found it - and even the most starry-eyed fans felt possible when a messy-haired Aaron Ramsey and scrawny left-back Gareth Bale first arrived on the scene.
