
Spend a few days in the Lake District and you’re bound to experience two things: crowds, and rain. As I zigzag up the steep trail leading out of the U-shaped glacial valley of Mickledon, there’s no end to the supply of precipitation pelting me from all sides, but as for other people? They’re in short supply.
You might think that to experience Cumbria and the Lake District through the eyes of Wordsworth, who once wandered the region “lonely like a cloud”, you need a time machine to go back to the days before the National Park drew 18 million visitors a year. It turns out all you really need is to walk the Cumbria Way.