If anyone asks me where I grew up, I generally answer: “Perilously close to Essex”. Sleepovers in Chigwell, avoiding nightclubs in Epping, house parties in Theydon Bois (if you were wondering, it’s pronounced boys). Needless to say, at the time, my wine drinking wasn’t sophisticated, but who cares? I really did think Lambrini was pretty chic.
But Essex is much maligned. It is, in fact, one of the country's most beautiful counties. It may not have rugged cliffs or craggy hills, but in its rural corners you’ll find the landscape that inspired Constable, and on its easterly edges a soft, yielding coastline whose estuaries give way to the North Sea. And it's in this landscape that something remarkable is happening in English wine.
