Once a semi-secret refuge about two hours north of Manhattan, the Catskills provides an easy escape for city dwellers seeking a quieter alternative to more crowded—and costly—New York getaways like the Hamptons. The area has become less of a secret—but one that frequent visitors and those who live there keep near and dear to their hearts. Out-of-town guests are, of course, welcome (the Catskill Mountains and surrounding area was a summer haven filled with cabin rentals and overnight camps since the 1950s). But there’s still a gentle balance between preserving the area’s authentic charm and declaring it a hot spot vacation destination.
This allure has only grown in recent years, with an influx of people making the Catskills home; there has also been a cultural renaissance of sorts with a new flock of chic and tranquil (but not all too precious) hotels, award-winning farm-to-table restaurants, and artfully curated boutiques, homewares shops, and markets stocked with fresh, locally sourced produce.
While summer is beautiful with its lush greenery and late sunsets over the mountains, fall arguably showcases the Catskills at its finest. Its vibrant foliage, cozy firepits, and crisp air make it the perfect time to break out your barn jacket.
Having visited the area for several years, I’ve gathered thoughtful recommendations and hidden gems from friends and colleagues who live and work there. They include a rare mix of unpretentious charm and sophistication. If you're also drawn by the golden fall foliage, the farm-fresh food, and the calming mountain scenery, here’s how to get the most out of an idyllic fall weekend in the Catskills.
While there are landmark hotels, like Mohonk Mountain House in New Paltz, and options that are new and a bit more of an investment, like the two-year-old Wildflower Farms hotel in Gardiner, Inness in Accord— a hamlet town located about 90 miles north of New York City—is the perfect goldilocks location in the area. Designed by architect Taavo Somer with Post Company and Roll & Hill on interiors, Inness spans 220 acres with 28 secluded cabins, a 12-room farmhouse, and posh decor that evokes a sleek, minimalist countryside aesthetic. The 9-hole golf course is still open in autumn, and the long-awaited full-service spa is now taking bookings emphasizing holistic treatments and organic products.
Sweeping views of the Catskill Mountains are postcard-perfect and a great way to spend mornings sipping coffee on the cabin porch or cocktails at dusk on the hill. The Mediterranean restaurant on the property is also a must—featuring a refined rustic menu chock-full of seasonal ingredients. And for those traveling with four-legged companions, Inness warmly welcomes dogs, who seem to enjoy the peaceful grounds as much as their humans do.
Getting out in nature is obligatory upstate in the fall, and there’s no better way to get some fresh air and witness the changing foliage than a hike. And there are diverse trails in the area—for all levels of expertise. Lake Minnewaska Loop Trail is a great beginner loop, roughly 1.9 miles, for a morning stroll around the lake. Meanwhile, more seasoned hikers should make a morning and early afternoon out of hiking the 7.5-mile loop up to Gertrude's Nose in Minnewaska State Park Preserve; it's a more challenging (but well worth it) hike known for its stunning cliffside views, dramatic rock formations, and panoramic Hudson Valley vistas. The trail takes you through several hours of dense forests and breathtaking sections with views along the top, making it a favorite for the area’s adventurous hikers.
Once your hike is completed, pat yourself on the back and book a spa appointment back at Inness, where walking into the 7,000-square-foot property powered by geothermal energy will make you feel all is good and well in this world. Eleven-foot ceilings, a serene neutral color palette, panoramic windows with mountain views, and, most importantly, amenities—like a sauna, steam room, and bathhouse make it an inviting place to snuggle up with a book for the afternoon or book a signature massage or facial before golden hour.
If you can't get out to hike or you're with little ones, you can explore the nearby town of New Paltz, do some apple picking at Sauderskill Farms, or potentially catch some live music on the lawn at Arrowood Farms.
There’s no shortage of places to eat and drink well in this region of upstate New York. The influx of impressive culinary talent moving into the area means more great food destinations—some that are hybrid spaces for food, shopping, and gathering—like Ravenwood—and others that stock and curate local provisions, like Accord Market and First Bloom Corner Store, Alison Roman’s shop in the town of Bloomville.
Notable chefs from New York are also making their mark here with acclaimed restaurants like Stissing House, run by Claire de Boer in Pine Plains, and Brushland Eating House in Bovina, where the husband-and-wife team, Sohail and Sara, create exquisite Persian cuisine. These eateries are definitely worth a visit, although they are located about 1.5 hours in either direction from Accord. For more local options, tons of restaurants nearby will satisfy all kinds of cravings, including Inness Restaurant, led by Executive Chef Gabriel Salazar, serving seasonal handmade pasta, vegetables, fish, and meat from local purveyors. For a laidback lunch or dinner, visit Westwind Orchard, serving wood-fired pizzas, housemade cider, and Arrowood Farms for snacks and beers. For pizza that rivals a Manhattan slice, visit Ollie’s Pizza. Then, head back to Inness for a nightcap around the outdoor fire pits and ponder, like most do, why you haven’t moved up here already.
