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The final part of the ascent is a rocky scramble. Bearfence Loop Trail is steep but short, and after just over a mile, I’m clinging to a tree root as I pull myself up to the highest point – and from there Shenandoah National Park is spread out before me. The early morning light picks out the rich late summer colours across the Virginia Piedmont plateau and in the distance, chestnut-covered mountains rise above the Shenandoah Valley. Peregrine falcons swoop below, and a light wind ruffles the leaves of the red oak forests.
I’m on my way out of the park after three days of exploring, but I couldn’t resist pulling off the Skyline Drive for one last hike. Because, despite the fact that this trip through Virginia would take me all the way from mountains to coast, that's how I had decided to travel: slow, un-rushed and opting for the scenic route over the highways.