ABOARD THE OCTANIS — The voyage of the Viking Octantis through the Great Lakes unveiled beautiful sunrises and sunsets, the rocky Maine-like coast of Georgian Bay in Ontario and its thousands of islands.
The pollen was so thick from a pine forest along Frazer Bay that, from a distance, it looked like it was raining on the waterway.
But the cruise ship wasn’t the only place that afforded enchanting views.
The Octantis has a flotilla of smaller vessels that allowed closer inspection. They included two deck boats, 15 kayaks, 17 inflatable boats and two submarines.
The smaller boats sometimes raced over the water, which was an adventure by itself. For passengers sitting in the front, it was a wet adventure, especially when 35-knot winds kicked up the waves.
Marilyn Hagie, 79, a retired education professor from Windsor, Colorado, was drenched by the time her inflatable boat returned from a visit to Killarney in Ontario.
“I’m going to start taking it personally,” she told the pilot.
Much drier were the interiors of the two six-seat submarines. The Georgian Bay normally is clearer than the Great Lakes but, alas, after dropping 65 feet to the bottom of the waterway, the green water was too murky to see anything.
On one hand, passengers were disappointed by the lack of visibility. On the other, they had just ridden in a sub.
Viking had to wait until it reached Canadian waters before unleashing its fleet. U.S. law prohibits foreign ships from deploying them, which may have been the reason the vessel lingered three days in the Georgian Bay.
Given the academic bent of the voyage, it wasn’t enough to just enjoy nature. Passengers studied it.
And the best place to do that was the science lab. Yes, the cruise ship has a science lab stocked with microscopes and white lab coats. It’s used by colleges and agencies that partner with Viking to do research.
Passengers can chat with the scientists and participate in the work, including the examination of microplastics that had been filtered from the water.
"This is the closest most will get to being on a working research vessel," said Damon Stanwell-Smith, a marine biologist who is head of science and sustainability on the ship.
On this trip, the science extended to the top deck.
Octantis’ research partner was the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. NOAA has designated the ship as a weather balloon launch station, which would be a terrible name for a party boat.
It spoke to the type of people drawn to an educational cruise that one morning; when the ship released a weather balloon at 6:45 a.m., 50 passengers showed up.
Damon Stanwell-Smith, a marine biologist who is head of science and sustainability, on the opportunities afforded Viking Octantis passengers.
After a countdown, a crewmember released the 5-foot balloon from the windy deck. The latex orb carried transmitters that measured temperature, wind speed and atmospheric pressure.
“Bye-bye, little balloon,” a woman was overheard saying as it floated away.
It would eventually burst after 16 miles but not before some watchers skittered back into the ship to view a computer that registered the fluctuating data.
The Octantis has an 18-member expedition team from around the world whose specialties range from nature to kayaking to marine biology.
One member is from Michigan.
Loreen Niewenhuis of Traverse City is the ship’s Great Lakes specialist. She has written three books about them, including one about her 1,000-mile hike around Lake Michigan.
She gave lectures about the Great Lakes to passengers but, like other members of the expedition team, wears many hats. She helped with the weekly balloon launch, gave tours of the science lab and worked as a guide for the visits ashore.
“I literally work all over the ship,” she said. “I move around so much I don’t have to work out.”
Niewenhuis, 58, said she has few chances to sample the ship’s fineries. She has little downtime and her schedule constantly changes as she switches roles with other team members.
To her, luxury on a luxury cruise is the chance to sleep until 7:30 a.m.
She said her biggest challenge was learning her way around the ship in the first few weeks.
Her favorite part is getting to talk about the Great Lakes. It’s a subject her relatives know all too well.
“My family says, please, go elsewhere and talk about the Great Lakes,” she said.
Despite the trip’s proximity to Michigan, Niewenhuis said she doesn’t feel close to home. That’s because she flew to Toronto for the start of her 15-week stint aboard the floating schoolhouse.
One exception will be when the Octantis sails by Isle Royale off the coast of Thunder Bay in Ontario. She knows its inhabitants well from her writing.
“When we go by the island, I’ll wave to all my moose and wolf friends,” she said.
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