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The Guardian - AU
The Guardian - AU
Lifestyle
Adam Liaw and Poh Ling Yeow

Vanilla slice, banh mi and fried ice-cream: Adam Liaw and Poh Ling Yeow on seven Australian dishes worth travelling for

‘I am an absolute sucker for regional Chinese Australian food’: Adam Liaw and Poh Ling Yeow sit down to a banquet feast at Golden Crown in Ballarat, Victoria.
‘I am an absolute sucker for regional Chinese Australian food’: Adam Liaw and Poh Ling Yeow sit down to a banquet feast at Golden Crown in Ballarat, Victoria. Photograph: SBS

Australia doesn’t have a singular national dish. Instead it is more of a nationwide buffet: a coast-to-coast spread of snacks, meals and culinary experiences that speak to the country’s diverse histories, peoples and cultures.

For their latest series, Adam and Poh’s Great Australian Bites, the former MasterChef Australia contestants and cookbook authors Adam Liaw and Poh Ling Yeow hit the road for several months, eating their way through the nation’s bain maries, bistros and regional bakeries. Here, they share the highlights of that trip.

1. AB from Blue and White cafe | Adelaide, South Australia

Adam says: What the rest of Australia knows as a HSP (halal snack pack), Adelaide calls an AB – don’t ask what it stands for, please [editor’s note: we asked and we regret it]. And every Adelaidean will tell you it originated there decades before HSP fever gripped the rest of the nation – and I certainly remember eating them in Adelaide more than 30 years ago.

The original AB is said to come from the Blue and White on O’Connell Street. Ask owner Lorenzo or his mum Maria to tell you how it was invented and they’ll be happy to oblige. There’s a strong local rivalry between the Blue and White and the neighbouring Red and White (real name: North Adelaide Burger Bar) over which one is better. So maybe try both and make up your own mind.

A square white takeaway container containing hot chips covered in shaved kebab meat, garlic sauce and tomato sauce, with three cardboard forks.
Before the halal snack pack, Adelaide had the AB – but don’t ask what it stands for. Photograph: SBS

2. Vanilla slice from The Loaf and Lounge | Camperdown, Victoria

Poh says: The handmade puff pastry is so well-caramelised (a mega beef of mine) and it sandwiches a custard that’s structured but silky. Then it’s all finished with a cheeky raspberry-flavoured icing – the loveliest surprise.

3. Dinner at Tali Wiru | Yulara, Northern Territory

Adam says: This fine-dining experience takes place in the open air under the desert sky as you watch the sun set over Uluru and Kata Tjuta. The setting is spectacular but so is the food – immaculately cooked and accented with Indigenous ingredients from around Australia.

4. Banh mi from Miss Van’s | Canberra, ACT

Poh says: Everything sings with vitality and depth because it’s made from scratch, then it’s all impeccably balanced in the assembly – which I feel is at least half the art of making a good sandwich.

A banh mi (Vietnamese baguette) filled with cha lua (Vietnamese steamed pork sausage), pickled carrot, mint and coriander.
‘Everything sings with vitality and depth’: a banh mi (Vietnamese baguette) from Miss Van’s in Canberra. Photograph: SBS

5. Lunch or dinner at Hogget Kitchen | Warragul, Victoria

Adam says: Chef Trevor Perkins gives a taste of the Gippsland area, sourcing all his ingredients from local farms and producers. He uses ordinary traditional techniques of pickling, curing and preserving to make food that’s finessed but not fussy.

6. Laksa from Chok’s Place | Darwin, Northern Territory

Poh says: This laksa is an institution in Darwin because it’s rich but still so moreish and incredibly layered with flavour. You can absolutely taste the pride and dedication that comes from a family-run business.

7. Fried ice-cream from Golden Crown | Ballarat, Victoria

Adam says: I am an absolute sucker for regional Chinese Australian food. I love it and have such strong memories of it from when I was a kid. It’s a cuisine unto itself and as different from the Chinese food I grew up eating at home as it is from meat and three veg. Golden Crown has been open for more than 40 years and it is all of your Chinese Australian food dreams come true.


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