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The Independent UK
The Independent UK
National
Thomas Adamson

Valentino’s 'Fireflies' by Alessandro Michele puts 70s silhouettes in the Paris spotlight

France Fashion Valentino S/S 26 - (Copyright 2025 The Associated Press. All rights reserved)

Against strobe lights that suggested seediness more than spectacle, Alessandro Michele sent out “Fireflies,” a Valentino collection that showed restraint where once there was riot. Prim ’70s silhouettes — bows, ruching, velvet skirts — set a mood at Paris Fashion Week of controlled nostalgia.

The high point was a draped gold gown with a feathered white collar, evoking myth and Valentino’s Roman past. A polka-dot shirt, satin skirts split with bright yellow panels, and occasional colorblocking kept the eclectic spirit alive, though without the exuberant force Michele has deployed before.

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