On the first warm day of the year, smoke billows out of the trailer on Upper Chorlton Road, the layby spot next to the Sharon Pentecostal Church where Kool Runnings is always, comfortingly, parked up. If it disappears for any amount of time, as it did after Christmas until it turned up again just a few weeks ago, people start to panic.
The first van was much smaller than this, half the size. But even this one is snug, considering the volume of food that comes out of it, its owner Aval Saunders cooking with his son Dominic - virtually on top of each other.
The queue - there’s a queue most of the time - comprises two young lads, who retreat to their lowered hatchback parked on the pavement to eat jerk chicken, rice and peas (no steamed veg, extra gravy), both doors flung open, the bass from the sound system gently vibrating the metal rivets on the truck.
