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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Emma Cook

Upstaging Umbria: rugged and seductive Le Marche

‘At sunset it gleams pink’: the village of Montefortino.
‘At sunset it gleams pink’: the village of Montefortino. Photograph: Wirestock Creators/Shutterstock

We are lounging on the terrace of Lapis Turris, a medieval watchtower high in the Sibillini mountains, taking it in turns to name films that remind us of the extraordinary landscape that wraps itself around us. Game of Thrones? Skull Island in King Kong? Tolkien’s Rivendell? It’s difficult to pick; this stunning, empty wilderness is Italy’s answer to all three.

Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini, in Le Marche’s mountainous southwest, is full of dense wooded hills, craggy peaks and lush green valleys. It is far wilder – and less populated – than neighbouring Tuscany and Umbria. You can go for days here before you spot anyone, let alone a tourist. It’s also a paradise for hikers and serious mountain bikers – with 10 peaks over 2,000m. Le Marche’s capital is Ancona – four hours from Rome by train.

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