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Unparallel Up Lace climbing shoes: first impressions
Combining the technical capability of a high-performance sport climbing shoe, with the fan favorite rubber from Unparallel, the Unparallel Up Lace shoes are like the not-so-secret love child between the La Sportiva Miura and Five Ten Anasazi Pink, due to their looks and stiff shoe performance. Already a firm favorite among outdoor steep wall climbers, the Unparallel Up Lace shoes are for those who love a stiff lace-up shoe, thanks to the speed lacing system, generous rubber rand and stiff midsole. For climbers wanting support from their climbing sole alongside a decent sticky rubber, they’re some of the best climbing shoes on the market.
• List price: $156.65 / £125
• Weight: 510g / 18oz
• Size: US 4-14 / EU 35.5-48.5
• Fit: Moderate-Asymmetric
• Color: Blue/black
• Outsole: 4.2mm UP RH
• Upper: Synthetic leather
• Closure: Lace-up
• Compatibility: Edging and smearing
There are many reasons why you should care about the sole of your climbing shoe – for starters, it’s the reason you may stick or come off the rock. The Unparallel Up Lace is a stiffer shoe that’s perfect for edging, heel hooks and smearing thanks to the use of Unparallel’s harder rubber compound. The Unparallel RH (Real Honor) sole is much more resilient and a stiffer rubber than the RS (Real Supreme) rubber that’s found in the company’s more sensitive sole shoes such as the Unparallel Flagship.
Unparallel Up Lace climbing shoes: on the rockface
The Unparallel Up Lace shoes are at their best when leading the way on steep terrain, feeling perfectly at home on slippery rock surfaces such as limestone and when trusting small protrusions in the rock. They’re also ideal for edging – using the sides and other parts of the shoe to find grip on the most unlikely of surfaces.
The Unparallel RH (Real Honor) rubber is a longer lasting sole, meaning the shoes are less likely to need resoling too often. Use of the speed lacing system allows for the shoes to grip the top of the foot and stop it moving around by anchoring it into place. This makes the shoe an ideal go-to for steeper, longer vertical climbs where maximum support is beneficial. A fully-lined synthetic upper with a suede-like material means the shoes are also vegan friendly.
If you are used to wearing a softer soled shoe, you’ll note the difference in how tired your calves will feel on longer vertical routes. While the Unparallel Up Lace took a little bit more time to ‘wear in’, they were my go-to pair for a precision fit that gave plenty of feedback and trust in my footwork.
Testing these shoes on a trip to some of the steeper multi-pitch walls of Sax and Marin, I learnt to get on with the Unparallel Up Lace shoes – but found they felt better when they weren't in the heat of the direct midday sun. It’s worth bearing in mind that when climbing in warmer climates to usual your feet can swell and suddenly technically sized shoes can be noticeable for all the wrong reasons! I found the confidence I had on vertical walls was far better when I kept the shoes in the shade and tried to ventilate my feet between climbs.
Sizing wise, I typically wear a European size 40 in trainers, but I am used to wearing tighter climbing shoes. For the Unparallel Up Lace shoes, I tried several pairs on in-store and decided on a European 38.5 which felt quite tight. If I wanted a more relaxed fit for more all-day wear, I would opt for a size 39.
