After years of rumours, gossip and speculation, celebrated Birmingham chef Brad Carter is to finally open his first London restaurant, and will do so in the crypt of a Mayfair church.
Carter has joined forces with former music publisher Martin Priestnall to open Undercroft, which will nestle below St George’s, a sweeping 16th century building off Hanover Square that dates back to the reign of George I. Its history is remarkable; US president Theodore Roosevelt was married there.
The Standard was told that Undercroft will bring together “the best in art, design, music and food,” and as such will be more than a standalone restaurant.
“Undercroft will centre around the promotion and preservation of cultural historical relevance through both food and establishment,” an announcement said.
“One of Mayfair’s great institutions, St George’s has a rich musical legacy and history — its imposing portico frontage is a landmark in the area.”
The 107-seat restaurant, housed in a vaulted underground space accessed by a side door and stairway — and recently used by the auctioneers Sotheby’s to store some of its most precious artwork — will be open for lunch through to late evening.
Carter is set to revive dishes that have disappeared off menus. On the way are the likes of wild garlic chicken toast, sea tripe and seaweed soup, Tamworth pork with creamed snails and sorrel, and barbecued duck with offal and oats.
For Carter to finally find a permanent home in London is considerable. The chef held a Michelin star at his Birmingham flagship, Carter’s of Moseley, for eight years, also finding success with the Good Food Guide and Restaurant magazine’s top 100 list. The team is in the process of relocating the restaurant. One Star Döner, Carter’s casual kebab concept in Manchester, remains.
At Undercroft, the space — restored by Tristram Hillier of Kanvass and Russell Sage Studios — will also feature a bar and “eclectic” cocktail list, and a varied selection of champagnes and fine wines.
The idea, the team said, is to provide a “sanctuary” for guests, away from the hectic streets of central London.
“Holly [wife and business partner] and I have loved every moment of establishing Carter’s in Birmingham — it has been so rewarding to watch the restaurant and team go from strength to strength over the years,” said Carter.
“We’ve always been keen to make the move to London and spent years searching for the right place to open and the undercroft at St George’s Church couldn’t be more perfect. I can’t wait to get stuck in and create a menu that reflects the history, character and magic of this incredible building.”
Priestnall added: “From the minute I set foot in the undercroft, I knew there was something special about the space. The look and feel is extraordinary, and Brad and I feel privileged to be custodians of somewhere with such a rich history.
“We don’t want to just offer diners a restaurant. Undercroft is going to be a stage for all creatives, be it in music, design or food, we will evolve and move with the talent that comes through the door.”