If there was a war raging in Ukraine, it’s hard to imagine that winemakers would continue their craft. However, despite the ongoing conflict with Russia, 160 winemakers in Ukraine persist in producing wine. The war, which began with Russia's invasion of Ukraine two years ago, has created a challenging environment for these winemakers, as the conflict zone encompasses the eastern border and the southern regions along the Black Sea where most of Ukraine’s vineyards are situated.
Ukraine, known for its agricultural prowess, ranks among the world’s top-ten producers of sunflowers, barley, wheat, and corn. Despite the challenges posed by the war, the country's vineyards cover approximately 30,000 hectares (75,000 acres) with around 160 registered wineries. The primary vineyard regions are located in the southern parts of Ukraine, particularly in the Odesa and Kherson regions along the Black Sea, as well as in the western region bordering Hungary and Slovakia in Zakarpattia.
Crimea, historically a significant wine-producing region, has been under Russian control since 2014. However, Ukraine continues to cultivate a variety of indigenous grape varieties such as telti-kuruk, sukholimansky white, and citronny of magarach, alongside international varieties. The country's winemakers are increasingly focusing on unique and indigenous grapes, offering wine enthusiasts the opportunity to explore new flavors and profiles.
Despite the challenges, Ukrainian winemakers have managed to export their wines, with exports totaling $9 million in 2023. The country's export promotion organization, Wines of Ukraine, is actively participating in international trade fairs like ProWein in Düsseldorf, Germany, showcasing wines from sixteen Ukrainian wineries. This event not only presents an opportunity to discover distinctive Ukrainian wines but also serves as a platform to support a country facing the hardships of war.
Various international projects, including initiatives by USAID, the United Nations, and the Swedish government, are underway to support and develop Ukraine's wine sector and agricultural industry. These efforts aim to bolster the resilience of Ukrainian winemakers and contribute to the growth of the country's wine industry amidst challenging circumstances.
