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The Guardian - US
The Guardian - US
Sport
Rich Tenorio

Triumph, tragedy and an occultist: life at the dawn of mountaineering

Oscar Eckenstein (second left, middle row) was a pioneer of bouldering and the use of crampons.
Oscar Eckenstein (second left, middle row) was a pioneer of bouldering and the use of crampons. Photograph: Dan Light

In 1907, Tom Longstaff made the first known summit of a 7,000-plus-meter peak, Trisul in the Himalayas. What did he consider the sine qua non for a mountaineer? The answer may surprise you.

Longstaff believed that “the most important quality of a mountaineer” was “knowing when to turn back,” according to Dan Light, who documents the rise of mountaineering in the late 19th and early 20th centuries in a new book, The White Ladder: Triumph and Tragedy at the Dawn of Mountaineering.

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