Jourdan Dunn, Joy Crookes and Euphoria’s Chloe Cherry braved torrential rain to catch a glimpse of London’s fashion talent incubator, Fashion East. For AW22, the platform that supports a handful of upcoming designers presented Maximillian, Chet Lo and Jarawa Alleyne, who showed back-to-back, cutting edge collections at E1 Nightclub, Wapping.
Alleyne, best known for dressing Rihanna up as a spliff for Dazed magazine, kicked off proceedings with his signature draped jersey dresses, deconstructed safety pin t-shirts, and warped denim which combines his Caribbean heritage with expert upcycling. “I think it went great,” he said post show. “With this collection you can really see the processes I’ve been working with – the drape work, the cut work. There is a lot of emphasis on the way garments fit the body.”
Next came Chet Lo, who makes 3D spikey knitwear loved by Kylie Jenner and Dua Lipa. For his second Fashion East season the offering included the candy hued, skin tight statement knits he is synonymous with, as well as new baby pink puffer vests and knee high boots, sky blue faux fur minis and long sleeve tops with feather trims. “I wanted to expand the offering. The research was about Winter, the cold, Après-chic. I wanted to make a personification of a Yeti. We sourced this fuzzy, furry yarn and started knitting it,” he said. Huge, spiked scarfs, rabbit teddy bear bags and earmuffs finished his look.
And the much anticipated closer of the catwalk was Maximillian. The man behind Michaela Coel’s super sleek 2021 Bafta gown looked to his childhood in rural Shropshire to inform the unisex tailoring with a twist. Cropped blazers with quilted details were worn with box pleat micro skirts, while knitted boxer shorts and a hooded, sheer lilac gown demanded attention. “The pinstriped tailoring was inspired by my Dad,” he said, of the short lapelled, knee length overcoats. “All of the looks were really thought about. It all means something to me.”
Hollers came from an audience plied with rum and ginger beer as the lights came up. Fashion East Founder and Director Lulu Kennedy smiled on the F’row. “It’s amazing we have such a full house when there is a torrential storm out there,” she said. “I’ve seen them almost every day in the run up. They’ve been working so hard, and everyone did good.”
