Trophies aren't everything in the winemaking game - taste is subjective, after all - but if you're winning them you're clearly doing something right.
And if you're winning them by the handful ... well, enough said.
So you can imagine how the team at Handpicked Wines felt when they set a benchmark recently at the renowned James Halliday Chardonnay Challenge.
Handpicked took the title for Best Chardonnay in not one, but three of Australia's most prestigious wine regions - the Best Yarra Valley Chardonnay, as well as Best Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay and Best Tasmanian Chardonnay (all $60). It is a feat that had never been achieved in the Challenge's history.
The Mornington wine scored 95 points and the other two scored 96.
"I'm almost speechless," Handpicked's chief winemaker Peter Dillon said.
"Winning one is a privilege, but to win three trophies concurrently with our Collection range is absolutely stellar for us."
Handpicked's business model is to pick a particular variety that a region does well, then make the best example they can of it.
In some cases that will mean buying a vineyard, in others they will source premium fruit from a grower.
But even then, a commitment to sustainability and respect for the land is also required - it's non-negotiable.
Since its inception just over 20 years ago, Handpicked now has four vineyards, starting with its flagship Mornington vineyard Capella - named after one of the brightest stars in the night sky - as well as Auburn Road vineyard in Tasmania, and Highbow Hill and Wombat Creek in Yarra Valley.
"The expression and unique styles these sites allow us to convey is something winemakers can only dream of," Dillon said.
Handpicked's range is both vast and eclectic.
There's shiraz from the Barossa, Hilltops, Heathcote and McLaren Vale, for example; cabernet comes from the Yarra, Coonawarra and Margaret River; there's the three chardonnays mentioned above, plus a few odds and ends, such as marsanne, Tasmanian sparkling, a gamay-mencia blend, as well as a host of single vineyard wines.
And while it has had success across the board, it's Handpick's chardonnays that are raising eyebrows.
"Over the past 21 years, our single focus has been to create the best wines from the greatest regions, and we've steadily accomplished this," Handpicked CEO and founder William Dong said.
"Last year, our Wombat Creek Chardonnay was named Best Chardonnay from Yarra Valley, Best Chardonnay in Australia, and Best White Wine in Australia at the Royal Melbourne Wine Show, which was fantastic.
"Now having three of our regional chardonnays win three regional trophies at the James Halliday Wine Challenge - it is truly remarkable.
"Our original vision was to build a brand that people respect and trust, where everyone can find a wine they love and feel confident that it's beautifully crafted. I think we have achieved exactly this."
WINE REVIEWS
CALCULATED COOL
Handpicked Collection Tasmania Chardonnay, 2022
$60
All lean and citrussy to start with briny, greener flavours of apple and grapefruit - very chablis-like. Richer stonefruit and melon flavours come through mid-palate, bringing weight and texture. Then it hands over to zesty cool-climate acid that is clean and precise. Oak shows through too, but very much a minor player.
SUN IN A GLASS
Vasse Felix Filius Shiraz, 2022
$30
The '22 vintage was a beauty in Margaret River and you can feel the sunshine in this bottle. Blackberry and plummy blue fruits, full and concentrated, come with an appealing earthy edge. There's a pinch of peppery spice, and the finishing acid is lively, highlighting a dry finish. There's a real ease of drinking about this wine.
GOOD-VALUE FIZZ
Barwang Impromptu Sparkling Chardonnay, 2023
$25
For those looking for a decent glass of fizz at a modest price, here you go. It's not a star, but it's pretty smart drinking at the price. Red apple and citrus flavours, a hint of toast, creamy texture and a zesty finish ... all very balanced and easy. To kick off a barbecue with friends it would work a treat.
