Tory Burch was once a label synonymous with a preppy New York mum aesthetic: all blow dries, colourful tunics and those sell-out ballet pumps with golden logo medallions. In recent years, however, the brand has found a fresh energy and is fast-becoming one of the best shows on the New York schedule.
Never was that more clear than on Monday night, when Claire Foy, Suki Waterhouse and Ashley Graham took their seats front row in the former Emigrant Industrial Savings Bank — a beaux-arts beauty of a building across from City Hall Park — to see Burch unveil an AW23 collection that felt elevated, playful and most definitely cool. “It’s more of an extension of my wardrobe than it used to be. It’s more personal,” said the American designer post-show.
The collection was about being unapologetically yourself, and embracing the imperfections and occasional unravelling that are a fact of life. Lovely languid silk trousers in apple green, petrol blue and coffee came pooling at the foot, sheer silky shirts had undone cuffs trailing over fingertips and cashmere jumpers had pre-scrunched sleeves.
Giant safety pins hooked grey schoolgirl kilts (worn on the hips and slightly askew) and the backs of dresses. Covetable coats came big shouldered and nipped at the waist, while blazers were cutaway from the navel — Irina Shayk wore hers buttoned over a nightie and carried her handbag flapping open. Elegant but ever so slightly frazzled mum on the school run energy.
A sexiness was spliced through via a section of camisoles and lingerie sets in blush, ivory and black satin and mesh — who better to model them than the brand’s latest campaign star Emily Ratajkowski? Some dresses looked like they’d been put on backwards and fishnets accompanied every look, even the most sensible of skirts. Mid noughts Tory Burch preppy perfection this was not, and it was all the better for it.
“To be honest I think we all feel a bit undone right now, and I want to make that beautiful,” said Burch backstage, golden safety pin dangling jauntily from one ear.
