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The Guardian - AU
The Guardian - AU
Lifestyle
Kelly Eng

Tom Toon Thai Noodle Cafe, Melbourne: 23 kinds of papaya salad in the quiet end of Abbotsford

Narrow restaurant, extensive menu: Tom Toon Thai Noodle Cafe in Abbotsford, Melbourne.
Narrow restaurant, extensive menu: Tom Toon Thai Noodle Cafe in Abbotsford, Melbourne. Photograph: Eugene Hyland/The Guardian

“Thai guys put in two or three spoonfuls of this,” says chef Chuma Jantharaphitak, pointing to a jar of house-made green chilli, lime and garlic sauce. “Just stir it through the soup.”

The soup he’s referring to is kway teow neua toon, the signature beef noodle gravy soup at Melbourne’s Tom Toon Thai Noodle Cafe. Flat, narrow rice noodles and three kinds of beef – sliced sirloin, braised gravy beef, and boiled beef balls – bob about in a rich broth.

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