Fish bar Tollington’s might be located in the heart of London’s Finsbury Park, but it wouldn’t feel out of place in sunny Barcelona. That’s thanks to its simple seafood menu and the charming Spanish-inspired interiors that make this bright new opening look like it’s been around for decades. And, in some ways, it has.
Tollington’s, London
Tollington’s has, after all, been a staple of N4 for many years, albeit in a different guise. Once a neighbourhood fish and chip shop, it’s now the latest venture from Ed McIlroy of Four Legs – the team behind beloved local pub The Plimpsoll. As with his pub, McIlroy sought to protect and polish many of Tollington’s original features. ‘It’s important to retain beautiful old parts of London,’ he says. ‘I wanted the renovation to be as light as possible.’ The original emerald green frontage, for instance, remains intact. It features a gold serif lettering spelling out the restaurant’s name – a tribute to its predecessor.
Inside, the interiors have been sensitively refurbished to capture the spirit of Spanish eateries. Take the tiled floor: ‘It was covered in 20 years of chip grease. But, after scrubbing it with bicarb and vinegar, I found that the tiles are beautiful and remind me of those in taverns in Madrid.’ With parents based in Spain, a destination he’s been visiting since childhood, McIlroy has long had an affinity with the country. ‘I love the no-nonsense informality of dining there – the way people eat standing up, for example. That’s what I want to encourage here.’
As a result, Tollington’s has been cleverly divided into two halves. At the front, there’s a long narrow bar – ‘which reminds me of El Xampanyet in Barcelona’, says McIlroy – where diners are invited to enjoy a quick bite and, say, a glass of house wine while using wooden ledges to lean against. Formerly used by the chip-shop for potato peeling, the back room has been transformed into a characterful dining room decorated with round marble tables – another staple of Spanish restaurants. The pièce de résistance, however, is a beautiful mosaic by artist Anja Maye, depicting the view from McIlroy’s family home in Spain.
Once painted sky blue, the entire space is now a sandy yellow. Akin to the colour that defined McIlroy’s mother’s kitchen when he was growing up, the shade complements the dark wooden shelving. ‘The wood has been repurposed from 19th-century church pews. Because it’s old, it looks like it could have been here for 50-odd years.’
One of the most intriguing things about the space is the assortment of art that hangs on the walls, which McIlroy has been collecting for years. It includes a painting by an outsider artist who lives in a fishing village along the northwest coast of Spain and a bespoke piece by London-based painter Harry Jones.
And then there’s the food: it’s unfussy but fresh and flavourful. Devilled crab, smoked eel omelette, salty potatoes and sauces (made using the original chip-shop fryers), and pollock pil pil are among the standout plates, while flan and strawberries are served for dessert. ‘We’re not interested in garnishing anything too much,’ says McIlroy. ‘Expect simplicity – a piece of fish just cooked really well.’
Tollington’s is located at 172 Tollington Park, London, @tollingtons.fishbar
