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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
World
Charlotte Higgins and Mariana Matveichuk in Mykolaiv region

To make wine is to believe in the future: the Ukrainians growing grapes on the frontline

Mykhailo Molchanov inspects the grapes on a vine while on a walk with his dog Direktor
Mykhailo Molchanov, a winemaker, is cutting vine leaves, during a walk with his dog Direktor. Photograph: Julia Kochetova/The Guardian

As winemaker Mykhailo Molchanov pottered about trimming foliage from his vines on a warm early-summer day, his dog Direktor at his heels, it was hard to imagine a more idyllic scene.

The Molchanovs’ organic vines are planted directly into the richly biodiverse grassland for which southern Ukraine is renowned – hence their label’s name, Steppe Wines – amid the silvery feathergrass and wild salvia.

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