FORT LAUDERDALE, Fla. — It’s the constant refrain of escapees from Elmira and East Rutherford: South Florida has no seasons. Not so. Saturday is opening day for Grapefruit League spring-training baseball for five Major League teams in three South Florida ballparks — for fans, it’s Christmas every day.
For the next month, local fans will mingle with brethren from all over the country at parks in West Palm Beach, Jupiter and Port St. Lucie to celebrate this season of renewal, when all things are possible, everyone is in first place, and even the Washington Nationals have hope.
This optimism radiates off the faces of out-of-town visitors, slathered in sunblock in winter, who are just happy to be here, whether at the ballpark or a local restaurant — hotel-ticket travel packages are sold out for each team.
Baptizing yourself in this atmosphere is good for your soul: To quote W.P. Kinsella’s “Shoeless Joe,” better known by its film title, “Field of Dreams,” baseball “reminds us of all that once was good, and it could be again.”
Here is a look at how to experience 2023 spring-training baseball with the extra-enthusiastic fans of the World Series champion Houston Astros (who play in West Palm Beach), the moneyed New York Mets (Port St Lucie), the retooled St. Louis Cardinals (Jupiter) and the pitching-rich Miami Marlins (Jupiter). Again, fans of the Nationals (West Palm Beach) are just happy to be here.
Note that many of the best seats for bigger weekend games have been claimed. Every spring-training game in sunny South Florida, apparently, is a big game for Cardinals fans.
The Ballpark of the Palm Beaches
— 5444 Haverhill Road, West Palm Beach
A game-changer when it opened in 2017 for baseball fans in Broward and Miami-Dade counties who were tired of the ride to Jupiter, the 7,700-capacity park is shared by the Houston Astros and the Washington Nationals. The Astros have appeared in four World Series (winning two) in the six seasons since their spring home debuted. The stadium still feels new, its modern and architecturally thoughtful atmosphere accentuated by a wide, covered concourse with uninterrupted views of the field.
— Getting there: The stadium is located a mile west of Interstate 95′s Exit 74 at 45th Street, and about 4 miles north of Exit 99 off Florida’s Turnpike at Okeechobee Boulevard. Tri-Rail’s Mangonia Park station is a 3-mile Uber ride from the stadium. The Brightline station in downtown West Palm Beach is a little more than 7 miles away.
— Parking: Lots on the stadium grounds can be entered off Haverhill Road on the west side and North Military Trail on the east side. Parking costs $15, credit card only.
— Astros/Nationals tickets: Prices are dynamic, based on the opponent and day of the week. They range from $15 (for a general-admission lawn ticket during the Astros-Marlins game on Feb. 27) to $65. Both teams offer discounted flex packages with a four-game minimum. For tickets, schedule and more information, visit MLB.com/astros/spring-training or Nationals.com/spring.
— This weekend: The Astros open spring training at 1:05 p.m. Saturday against the New York Mets at The Ballpark of the Palm Beaches. There are seats available in most sections, which is surprising. The Nationals begin their home spring schedule at 1:05 p.m. Sunday against the Astros.
— Sweet seats: A newer stadium, The Ballpark of the Palm Beaches was designed with shade in mind, and its physical orientation puts many of the infield seats in shade for most of the game. It also has the largest outfield lawn among spring stadiums in left and right, where tickets start at $15 for many games (bring your own shade). The Picnic Patio down the left field line is a popular spot for families (tickets start at $34), offering GA seating, picnic tables and a grassy hill for kids to roll down. The Astros’ clubhouse is behind the left field wall and the team walks down the left field line to enter and exit the stadium. The Astros as a team are good about signing autographs, especially star Jose Altuve — but expect a line.
— Astros spring highlights: Houston has three opportunities to potentially face former ace Justin Verlander in West Palm Beach when they host the New York Mets (Feb. 25, March 7, March 18). The Astros’ spring roster also includes former Archbishop McCarthy star Joe Perez, an infielder who is one of the team’s best young hitting prospects.
— Nationals spring highlights: The Nationals are loaded with up-and-coming talent who will be given the chance to shine during the spring. The Nationals “Spring Training Live” radio show will bring players and coaches to E.R. Bradley’s Saloon in downtown West Palm Beach from 6 to 7 p.m. Sunday, Feb. 26, and the three following Sundays. The New York Yankees will pay the Nationals a visit at 1:05 p.m. March 22.
Roger Dean Chevrolet Stadium
— 4751 Main St., Jupiter
Roger Dean is the spring-training facility for both the Miami Marlins and St. Louis Cardinals, as well as the year-round home to four of their minor league teams. Set on a grid of quiet streets next to the Downtown Abacoa dining and entertainment complex, the stadium (opened in 1998) feels like it’s nestled into a small town in the Midwest.
— Getting there: It’s less than a 30-minute drive from West Palm Beach to the eastbound Donald Ross Road exit off I-95. The stadium is a little more than a mile east of I-95.
— Parking: The Abacoa Parking Garage (behind the Courtyard by Marriott across Main Street) costs $13. There are parking lots a short walk or shuttle ride from the stadium that cost $10.
— Nearby: Downtown Abacoa has more than a dozen restaurants, including an outpost of West Palm Beach favorite Civil Society Brewing. The complex also has a small amphitheater that offers nationally touring performers (I once saw country star Jamey Johnson). I have spent many a night at the Courtyard by Marriott across the street during baseball tournaments, and it was as comfortable as it is convenient. The lobby bistro offers a fine selection of grab-and-go breakfast and lunch options.
— Marlins/Cardinals tickets: Prices range from $23 to $73 depending on the day and the opponent. For tickets, schedule and more information, visit MLB.com/marlins/spring-training or MLB.com/cardinals/spring-training.
— This weekend: The Cardinals take on the Washington Nationals at 1:05 p.m. Saturday. The Marlins’ first spring training home game is against their roommates on Sunday, facing the Cardinals at 1:10 p.m.
— Sweet seats: Not a bad seat in the house, but shade is at a premium. Seats in the very back of the 200 level are the coolest. If you’ve got kids looking for autographs, I have found that seats down the left field line in Section 122 and Sections 301-304 allow them to slide up to the rail where the Marlins bullpen pitchers sit against the wall. In my experience, they’ll talk to kids and sign between half-innings. Security will frown on adults standing in that area, but kids seem to make it work. Note: This area also includes wheelchair accommodations, so be respectful.
— Marlins spring highlights: You may get a chance to see arguably the top pitching prospect in Major League Baseball, the Marlins’ 19-year-old flame-thrower Eury Pérez. On Feb. 28, the Marlins will bring the Fort Myers-based Boston Red Sox to this side of the state, and on March 8 have a game scheduled against Team Israel, also playing in the World Baseball Classic in Miami.
— Cardinals spring highlights: This will be the first spring since 2004 without Cardinals icon Yadier Molina behind the plate, so everything may feel a little off. The Cards will host Team Nicaragua on March 9 and the New York Yankees on March 23.
Clover Park
— 31 Piazza Drive, Port St. Lucie
Befitting its address, Clover Park has been home to Mike Piazza’s former team, the New York Mets, and their minor league affiliates since 1988. Random trivia: The stadium, which underwent a nearly $60 million renovation in 2019-2020, is where former Florida Gators Pete Alonso and Tim Tebow first took the field together.
— Getting there: Clover Park is less than an hour’s drive north of West Palm Beach on both I-95 and Florida’s Turnpike (the stadium sits between the two). If it helps you decide which route to take, the Mets warn that there is construction at Exit 121, which may slow traffic from I-95 onto St. Lucie West Boulevard.
— Parking: Cost is $15, RVs $25.
— Nearby: St. Lucie West Boulevard has no shortage of chain dining options, from Duffy’s and Bob Evans to Five Guys and First Watch. For something local, the Howling Rooster Pub & Grub (1319 St. Lucie W. Blvd.) has plenty of TVs and a thoughtful lineup of live music, while the Lakeview Bar & Grille (951 SW Country Club Drive) has a nice terrace overlooking a golf course. If you are brewery-curious, Hop Life Brewing Co. (679 NW Enterprise Drive) is about a mile from Coral Park and is open at noon Tuesdays through Sundays.
— Mets tickets: With fans of the Amazins extra enthusiastic this spring, most seats in desirable sections for many games are available only via the resale market. Prices for remaining seats cost $25 to $35. For tickets, schedule and more information, visit MLB.com/mets/spring-training.
— Sweet seats: For shade, you’re going to want to look at seats under the large canopy behind the plate, especially the upper 100 level. The berm in right field, called The Hill, is also popular. For proximity to players, Section 106 next to the home-plate side of the Mets’ third base dugout is highly prized.
— Concession tip: New in 2023 — Coral Park is cashless. You’ll also find your favorite beers from Funky Buddha Brewery, pride of Oakland Park, at the stadium.
— This weekend: The Mets open spring training on Saturday with a 6:10 p.m. game against the Miami Marlins, followed by a 1:10 p.m. Sunday game against the Washington Nationals.
— Spring highlights: This spring will offer Mets fans some history, the chance to say they saw Justin Verlander’s first pitch in a Mets uniform. And of the team’s 16 spring home games, three will be against the Houston Astros (Feb. 28, March 10 and March 22). They also will host exhibition games against World Baseball Classic teams from Nicaragua (March 8) and Venezuela (March 9).
