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The Independent UK
The Independent UK
Victoria Harper

This understated hotel nestled in vineyards is the best-kept secret of the Douro Valley

Casa do Rio is one of the Douro Valley’s best kept secrets - (Daniel Blankenheim)

“Time takes time,” says Felipe, the broad-grinned manager of Casa do Rio – an exclusive boutique wine hotel deep within Portugal’s Alto Douro Valley.

It is a local saying fitting for a wine region that has been growing grapes for 300 years in a landscape that has been thousands of years in the making, where a good Port can spend 50 years maturing in a barrel. It also feels entirely appropriate when you have just taken an accidental one hour and 49-minute detour because your husband has put the wrong address in the GPS.

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