The penultimate look of Jonathan Anderson’s latest womenswear collection for Loewe featured an enormous golden dressmaker’s pin, skewered through the ecru-coloured gown – itself appearing like an unravelling roll of fabric – as if holding its folded form in place.
Earlier in the show, pins were also seen perforating the waistband of leather shorts, and they had made an appearance in Anderson’s menswear collection, shown a few months prior, piercing through brocade tops. There, they were meant to evoke the small samples of fabric tacked on a board before a garment has even been created. In the womenswear collection, the designer said he imagined them jumping off the wall and onto the body. ‘If you take out the pin, does it fall down?’ he said after the show. ‘There’s something seductive in that.’
