It was billed as a once-in-a-lifetime experience; an exclusive meal created by five of the world’s top chefs in exchange for actor Robert De Niro’s help in promoting Madrid Fusion, a global gastronomy summit. As the cameras clicked and flashbulbs popped, the chefs rolled out a 16-course meal studded with caviar, red prawns and black truffle.
The initiative was widely applauded. But the inclusion of two dishes featuring eel – a ubiquitous ingredient across much of Europe – sparked consternation in some quarters.
