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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Joshua Surtees

‘They fill me with emotion’ … Benin celebrates the return of its looted treasure

Reunited … a response to the return by Emo de Medeiros, entitled For the Secret Is to Flow into the Flux #024 Tenture.
Reunited … a response to the return by Emo de Medeiros, entitled For the Secret Is to Flow into the Flux #024 Tenture. Photograph: © Emo de Medeiros, 2021

At first glance, it seems to be just another day in Cotonou, Benin’s largest city. Motorbike-taxis are everywhere, filling the streets of the country’s economic capital with dust and noise. But inside the swanky presidential palace, something seismic is talking place: over a century after they were looted by the French army, 26 treasures that once belonged to the nation have gone on display to the public.

Art of Benin Yesterday and Today is more than just a stunning show of these ancient works, though. It segues from the looted 19th-century artefacts to work by 34 of the country’s contemporary artists. “This is a form of regained dignity,” says local art historian Didier Houénoudé, “and the culmination of a long fight started by African countries shortly before independence.”

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