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With miles of golden sand beaches stretching along its western flank; gorgeous temples, mosques and churches dotted around the villages and hillsides; internationally revered Michelin restaurants; a culturally rich and recently regenerated old town; a well connected international airport; plus an armada of long tail boats anchored on the shores ready to drive you out on trips around the inlets, it’s easy to see why Phuket has maintained its spot as Thailand’s most popular island for decades.
Thailand buzz is currently oscillating across the world, partly thanks to the imminent arrival of the next installation of the hit HBO show The White Lotus – the third season wrapped filming in the country earlier this year. Due to be released in 2025, the show could easily bring higher tourist numbers than ever to the country.
But in Phuket, where gridlock traffic jams on the roads and lack of space on the beaches are already frequent complaints, it makes you wonder: does this island need an influx? Is it time to swap Phuket for another Thai destination on your next trip?
The heir apparent, and seamless alternative, to Phuket is Koh Samui, the verdant palm-lined favourite in the Gulf of Thailand. There are strong parallels between the two islands. Firstly, Samui also has an airport – some would say the cutest airport in the world, consisting of quaint wooden gazebo departure gates surrounded by thriving flower beds – so notions of bumpy ferries and catamarans to reach the island can be cast aside.
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More importantly, and very on-brand for Thailand at the moment: both islands have swathes of affordable luxury to indulge in but, unlike Phuket, on Koh Samui it’s easy to find a place that’s tucked away from the heaving crowds. It’s easy to relax into Samui, from family-friendly resorts such as Anantara Bophut, which has one of the largest and most zen spas on the island, and the Centara Reserve that sprawls along the shores of Chaweng Beach, to the bijou Avani+ Samui where floating breakfasts in your private pool are the norm, at their secluded resort in the remote southwest corner, Taling Ngam.
For the health conscious, Samui is also a wellness hotspot with some of the best retreats in the country. Kapuhala is an idyllic and eminently affordable detox-focused stay where tented villas nuzzle the forested hills of Chaweng Noi, and health food, yoga programmes and serenity are on the menu. Or further south on the island, the high-end Kamalaya Wellness Sanctuary has been making serious waves in the world of burnout retreats.
Samui is a bustling and vibrant island in places, though, particularly around the Fisherman’s Village night market, where excellent but inexpensive street food is aplenty, so don’t arrive expecting an undiscovered gem by any means. However, unlike Phuket, it is still possible to drive to quiet beaches and have pockets of the island to yourself. The sands of Coral Cove hemmed in by boulders, the quieter Bang Po Beach or the “secret” Ban Tai Beach are all worth exploring, to catch a few hours of sought-after beach bliss.
But if you’re feeling a smidge intrepid and yearning for beaches so unspoilt and wild that you won’t find a soul on them, head to the mighty Koh Chang – another strong substitute for Phuket. Also in the Gulf of Thailand, east of Bangkok and not far from the Cambodian border, the island is less developed in the way of a luxury scene but has some great boutique stays, plus a lot to offer in the way of adventure.
Getting there is a multi-transport game: hop on a bus or a very short flight from Bangkok to Trat, where you pick up a steampunk-style ferry that slowly chugs over to Thailand’s third-biggest island.
Koh Chang is an exceptional spot for trekking. Hikers are rewarded with one of the seven accessible, cascading waterfalls that are spread across the interior. The north side of the island is still pretty au naturel and generally untouched, particularly Long Beach, which is a must-visit. The south coast is lined with small hamlets and fishing villages where the accommodation, bars and restaurants are found. Staying on the south side of Koh Chang and exploring the north by bike is the way to go – unless you plan to spend your days horizontal on a sun lounger.
If that’s the case, being based in Lonely Beach or the neighbouring Bang Bao fishermen’s village is smart, where boutique accommodation like Oasis Koh Chang and Bhuvarin Resort have infinity pools with sea views to die for, while the boho-chic Indie Beach Bungalows have bedrooms right on the soft white sands (and even host gigs and the occasional music festival). Bang Bao Pier is the place to find the free-diving and snorkelling tours that loop around Koh Chang’s reefs and shipwrecks or head over to nearby Koh Rang National Park. For the landlubbers, Rasta Cafe is where you can kick back and enjoy the sunsets.
Of course, there are more than 30 Thai islands to stay on (out of the more than 1,400 in the country), but if you’re looking for the Phuket factor without the hordes of tourists, Koh Samui or Koh Chang will keep your sun-drenched dreams fulfilled.
Read more: Why you should visit Koh Samui now – before The White Lotus crowds descend
