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Chicago Sun-Times
Chicago Sun-Times
National
CST Editorial Board

There’s no beef, as long as consumers are told they’re eating ‘lab-grown’ meat

Chicken salad dishes made from Good Meat’s cell-cultivated chicken is shown at the Eat Just office in Alameda, California on June 14. U.S. regulators have approved the sale of chicken made from animal cells. (AP)

Which came first, the chicken or the egg? That’s an age-old question that’s been pondered by scientists and party guests for years.

Now that “lab-grown” chicken has been approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration and Agriculture Department, many Americans may have other fowl-related inquiries, henpecking about the origins of any poultry that’s offered to them.

The “no-kill” meat that’s made from cells derived from an animal, a fertilized egg or stored cells is a much more humane method to manufacture and ingest meat.

Not everyone is sold, however. Some are weirded out — including some of us on this editorial board — and others don’t think it’s safe. Half of the respondents in a poll taken by the Associated Press-NORC Center for Public Affairs Research said they are unlikely to try meat that has been grown in a lab.

What chickens. We’re kidding. Just pulling some (chicken) legs.

In all seriousness, we strongly believe consumers should have a choice, and know, through clear labeling and disclosure, what they are putting in their mouths.

Not too many will be getting their feathers ruffled right away, though. Lab-grown chicken won’t be on grocery store shelves anytime soon, since it’s still too expensive for mass production. And when it is widely available, it is initially expected to cost as much as premium organic chicken, which can go for up to $20 per pound.

With those prices, even adventurous carnivores will pass.

Only two California-based companies — Upside Foods and Good Meat — got the USDA’s blessing last week to produce and sell their chicken products. They are starting off by first serving the speciality meat in two high-end restaurants in San Francisco and Washington, D.C.

When the “cultured” meat is more accessible to the public, there will be additional questions on whether its production is more environmentally friendly. At least one recent study by the University of California, Davis says it can be potentially worse.

There will also be concerns regarding how the meat will be designated.

The USDA has ruled the lab-grown chicken by Upside Foods and Good Meat will be labeled “cell-cultivated,” according to Food Republic.

A broader ruling could come later this year, the online publication said.

Americans prefer “cell-cultured” and “cell-cultivated” to “lab-grown” and “artificial” for such kinds of meat and seafood, a 2022 study by researchers from the University of Edinburgh and University of Bath found.

As long as people can easily identify they are buying or ordering meat that is not directly from an animal being slaughtered, it seems not too many should have a beef.

The Sun-Times welcomes letters to the editor and op-eds. See our guidelines.

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